Question 1

How do I get rid of sticker burrs in my San Antonio lawn?

Accepted Answer

Sticker burrs (grass burrs) are one of the most common complaints in San Antonio yards. The most effective approach is a combination of pre-emergent herbicide in early spring before they germinate, and manual removal or post-emergent treatment for existing plants. Peyton can assess your lawn and recommend the right approach.

Question 2

Why does nutsedge keep coming back no matter what I do?

Accepted Answer

Nutsedge is notoriously hard to kill because it spreads through underground tubers, not just seeds. Standard herbicides don't work on it — you need a product specifically labeled for nutsedge like Sedgehammer. Peyton can advise on the right treatment and timing.

Question 3

Is manual weed pulling better than using herbicides?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the situation. Manual removal is better for beds with desirable plants nearby where you don't want chemical drift. Herbicides are more practical for large lawn areas or persistent weeds that keep coming back. Peyton will recommend the right approach for your specific situation.

Question 4

How do I prevent weeds from coming back after you clear them?

Accepted Answer

The best prevention is a combination of mulch in beds (2–3 inches suppresses most weeds), pre-emergent herbicide applied in late winter/early spring, and regular maintenance to catch weeds before they go to seed. Peyton can walk you through a prevention plan.

Question 5

Can you clear weeds from my driveway and walkways too?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Weeds growing through cracks in concrete, pavers, and gravel areas can be cleared manually or treated. Peyton handles both.

Question 6

How much does weed removal cost in San Antonio?

Accepted Answer

Flower bed weed removal typically runs $50–$150 per bed. Lawn weed treatment runs $75–$200 per application. A full property weed control program runs $150–$400 per visit. Seasonal prevention programs run $300–$600 annually.

Question 7

What's the difference between pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control?

Accepted Answer

Pre-emergent herbicide prevents weed seeds from germinating — applied before weeds appear, typically in late winter and early fall. Post-emergent kills weeds already growing. An effective program uses both at the right times of year.

Question 8

When should pre-emergent be applied in San Antonio?

Accepted Answer

For summer weeds like crabgrass, apply pre-emergent in late February to early March before soil temperatures reach 55°F. For winter weeds like annual bluegrass, apply in late September to early October. Timing is critical.

Question 9

What is nutsedge and why is it so hard to kill?

Accepted Answer

Nutsedge (nutgrass) spreads through underground tubers called nutlets. Standard lawn herbicides don't kill it. It requires a specific herbicide (like Sedgehammer or Dismiss) applied when actively growing. Multiple applications are usually needed.

Question 10

Will weed killer hurt my lawn?

Accepted Answer

Selective herbicides kill target weeds without harming your lawn grass when applied correctly. However, using the wrong product or rate can damage your lawn. Peyton uses the right product for your specific weed and grass type.

Question 11

How long does weed control last?

Accepted Answer

Pre-emergent typically lasts 8–12 weeks. Post-emergent kills existing weeds but doesn't prevent new ones. A year-round program with 3–4 applications is the most effective approach for San Antonio.

Question 12

Can you get rid of weeds in my gravel driveway or walkway?

Accepted Answer

Yes — weeds growing through gravel or pavers can be treated with a non-selective herbicide. We're careful to avoid overspray onto lawn or garden areas.

Question 13

Are the herbicides you use safe for kids and pets?

Accepted Answer

Most herbicides are safe once dry, which typically takes 1–4 hours. Peyton will advise on how long to keep kids and pets off treated areas. We use the minimum effective rate.

Question 14

Why do weeds keep coming back even after I pull them?

Accepted Answer

Pulling removes the visible plant but often leaves the root system intact — especially for deep-rooted perennials like dandelions and nutsedge. A combination of proper pulling technique, pre-emergent application, and improving lawn density is the long-term solution.

Question 15

What's the best way to prevent weeds long-term?

Accepted Answer

A thick, healthy lawn is the best weed prevention. Mowing at the right height, watering deeply but infrequently, fertilizing on schedule, and applying pre-emergent at the right times will crowd out most weeds naturally.

Service	Price Range	Notes
Flower bed weed removal (per bed)	$50–$150	Depends on size and density
Lawn weed treatment (per application)	$75–$200	Pre or post-emergent
Full property weed control	$150–$400	Lawn + beds
Seasonal weed prevention program	$300–$600/yr	3–4 applications
Nutsedge treatment	$100–$250	Requires specific herbicide

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